After leaving Coja, we made a pit stop in Arganil for a much-needed grocery shop. My enthusiasm for cooking (or even thinking about food) had officially left the building, and with the fridge looking like a post-apocalyptic wasteland, it was either do a proper shop or face the horror of a jam sandwich. Desperate times.
With supplies restocked, we drove for about an hour to Figueira da Foz. We briefly considered staying at the aire by the sea front but it’s just a large carpark and decided that a proper campsite was the better option, because we needed somewhere quiet to watch a close friend’s funeral back home — one of those moments that really highlights the downside of being away.
After a day of sitting, we were itching to stretch our legs and, more importantly, find food, ( albeit we have a fridge full of food!). A quick check of the map revealed an Indian restaurant nearby. Perfect. Off we went, stomachs rumbling… only to arrive and find it completely closed. Not deterred, we spotted a Chinese wok restaurant on the map and set off again—another 20- minute walk. You can probably guess where this is going. Yep, also closed down.
At this point, things were getting desperate, but there, right across the street, was a noodle bar! Salvation! Except… as we sat down, something felt eerily familiar. Slowly, we looked up and realized we were right opposite our campsite. We’d just walked miles in circles, only to end up back where we started, with dinner waiting right next door.
Hoping for better weather, we moved a few miles down to the seafront aire (the large glorified car park we decided against a day earlier ). We’d barely parked when John noticed the kitchen tap was leaking.
This was the start of a 24-hour mission to find a new tap and the right fittings—an adventure that tested John’s patience to Olympic levels. At one point, after yet another failed attempt at fixing it, he turned to me and asked, completely deadpan, “Where’s your big box of Swan Vestas?” ( Desperate times when he was considering setting the van on fire.) but i search of parts does give us the excuse to visit the cheap Chinese shops that are full of tat.
Fed up with my Kindle, I go old-school and grab a book only to remember my book lights are buried in storage. No problem, I think, and buy a head torch. But with only two settings dim or full-blown lighthouse beacon I have to be careful. One wrong move, and i will have the neighbour’s thinking i am signalling for a rescue mission!
With a weather warning in place for torrential rain and high winds, we decided to hunker down for another night. Four days later, still battling the elements, we realized it was time for a change of scenery (and mood).
We headed south towards Costa de Lavos, a spot we’d enjoyed in the past. Except now, it was part of the Camping Car Park group, charging €12 a night—with zero services. Not exactly a deal worth writing home about. The weather wasn’t helping either; most places looked closed, wet, or just plain miserable. So, we pressed on.
Eventually, we stumbled upon a hidden gem in Marinha Grande—a privately owned site with all the services, safe parking, and a pay-by-donation system. Now that is a campsite we can get behind and with several bars and a launderette nearby, what’s not to like, because nothing screams luxury like clean underwear and a cold beer.
Feeling adventurous, I decided to hunt down a cookie shop I’d read about. Mid-walk, a friendly Portuguese man stopped me and asked if I was lost. When I told him about my cookie mission, he smiled and politely suggested I put my mobile phone away if I wanted to keep it.
That was enough for me. No cookies are worth a potential mugging, no matter how good they are. Back to the van I went, cookie-less but still in possession of my phone. Small wins.
The locals here seem genuinely surprised by how much rain there’s been—but then shrug and say, ‘Well, it is only March.’ Our van does have heating, but let’s just say it’s more of a ‘polite suggestion’ than an actual source of warmth—especially when it’s wet and miserable outside. And since we don’t leave it on overnight for safety reasons, we get to experience the full ‘wake up and see your breath’ adventure.
In total, we spent seven nights in Marinha Grande, and miraculously, the rain finally stopped. The sun made a long-overdue appearance, and for the first time in what felt like forever, things were looking up, well it was good whilst it lasted in less than 24 hours the sound of rain starts to hit the roof again!!
After a week of walking in circles, battling leaks, dodging potential muggings, and enduring biblical levels of rain, we were more than ready for the next adventure, it’s time to move on.
At the campsite we opt to park on the concrete as the grassed areas are boggy
Campsite at Figueira da Foz is €13.00 a night with electric and at this time of year there’s lots of space
Our motorhome’s leaky tap is so dedicated, it’s working overtime it’s dripping like it’s paid by the drop!
It’s such a shame that the weather is so bad because Figueira da Foz has a great coastline for walking.
Herdade das Toupeiras offers this space where you can spend the night and day with your motorhome in total peace and rest. From here we take the opportunity to get to know the city of Marinha Grande, which is the land of glass with some interesting museums and displays to visit.
In Portugal, the laundry is a roadside attraction! Nothing says welcome to the neighbourhood quite like a row of underwear flapping proudly in the breeze, giving passing motorists an unexpected peek into the locals fashion (or lack thereof). Who needs privacy when your smalls can enjoy the great outdoors too?
In Marinha Grande we donate to the local hand ball team who are raising funds for equipment.
Marinha Grande is an interesting place with lots of statues and parks
A fascinating glass studio where visitors can watch skilled artisans craft intricate glass pieces through traditional techniques. While hands-on participation isn’t available, guests can admire the craftsmanship up close and purchase unique, handcrafted glass art as a souvenir or gifts.
We realise that the decanter and glasses we liked were too heavy to carry around Europe, so I chose a necklace as a souvenir instead.
Coordinates for Aires used in Portugal
Parque de Campismo Municipal Figueira da Foz
N 40° 9′ 55
W 8° 51′ 25
Figueira da Foz
N 40° 8′ 51
W 8° 52′ 2
Avenida Marginal
N 39° 52′ 46
W 8° 57′ 58
Marinha Grande
N 39° 44′ 25
W 8° 54′ 57