No Particular Place To Go

Reluctantly, we waved goodbye to lovely Foz do Arelho. But with two weeks’ worth of laundry piling up like a small mountain range in the van, it was time to move on, so off we trundled to Intermarché – the place where you can buy wine, cheese, toilet paper, and spin your smalls at the same time, multitasking on another level.

Freshly stocked and the proud owners of newly washed socks we headed south to Peniche. We found a site that was a large concrete slab – not very glamorous but functional. It was clean, secure at night, and just a 10-minute stroll into town. Plus, there was electricity – no need to burn through our GPL.

Now, usually, we avoid paid sites but with the weather doing its best impression of a soggy Shakespearean tragedy, staying put seemed easier. Still, our wallet was giving us the side-eye after a few weeks of shelling out for parking. So, off we went in search of a good ol’ freebie.

At São Pedro da Cadeira, we nabbed the last spot with a view. For 48 glorious hours, the sun came out, we frolicked (well, shuffled) in the warmth, and all was good in the world and its free.

But alas, the weather gods had other ideas. With another bout of doom and gloom on the radar and my visa appointment looming (hello, bureaucracy!), we didn’t fancy getting stuck in beachy sand, so onwards to Cascais, we went. 

Here’s where things got interesting there’s no official motorhome stop in Cascais, so we ended up at a place called Solitaire Lodge. Sounds dreamy doesn’t it, well actually it’s a corner of an industrial estate opposite a power station that hums and buzzes 24 hours a day but it’s secure, the owner’s a Land Rover fanatic with an amazing collection that any Top Gear enthusiast would love. 

With the van secure we decide to book a Bolt taxi to take us into Cascais, it’s a 40-minute drive and costs us £7.00 each way, a bargain. 

Our Bolt driver turned out to be a friendly Brazilian chap, and we rolled into Cascais expecting something… bigger. It’s quaint, not gonna lie, but the weather was doing its best to drown our enthusiasm. We ducked into a cafe for lunch before heading to my visa appointment at the AIMA office.

Now the AIMA office was a melting pot of people and stories. Some of the reasons people need visas were bonkers, all of it fascinating. I’ll write more about that in another blog. But let’s just say this visit featured an encounter with Portugal’s version of Cruella de Vil. I swear she had a sixth sense of interrupting people just as they started speaking. Still, despite the chaos (and thanks to a few people who were language superheroes who helped us translate), my forms were submitted, next it will be John’s turn in a few weeks time.

With another weather warning blinking ominously and our next house sit calling in 48 hours, we made a break for it and headed to Tomar and wait out the rain before heading north again. 

Peniche is a coastal town in central Portugal known for its rugged cliffs, beautiful beaches, and strong maritime heritage. It’s a hotspot for surfers, especially at Supertubos Beach, famous for its powerful waves. The town also serves as a gateway to the Berlengas Archipelago, a nature reserve with stunning biodiversity.

Historically, Peniche was a fishing hub and still retains a charming, laid-back vibe with fresh seafood and scenic ocean views.

Peniche Motorhome park

Nestled in the municipality of Torres Vedras, São Pedro da Cadeira is a charming coastal parish known for its stunning Atlantic views and rich history.

We walk the walls of the Bastioned Praça Militar which are delimited by a moat. Built between 1646 and 1671 it was flooded by a navigable sea stretch, that transformed Peniche almost into an island, making its defence easier.

The Sizandro River stretches over 40 km, originating in Sapataria (Sobral de Monte Agraço) and flowing into the sea at São Pedro da Cadeira

Today, the river’s connection to the sea is not constant. During periods of low water flow, a sandbar forms, blocking the passage. This sandbar is often manually opened or closed to regulate water circulation.

We spend a few hours at the beach in São Pedro da Cadeira after walking along the coastline

São João das Lampas we stop for a cup of tea where we have a view of Mafra monastery 

At Pêro Pinheiro, Solitaire Lodge is no diamond but it is safe 

In Cascais, we are once again under umbrellas

We try the famous Santinis ice cream in Cascais

The dog library in Tomar is full of sticks of all shapes and sizes

Great free park up in Góis

Someone, please—turn the tap off

Coordinates for Aires and campsites used in Portugal 

Peniche 

N 39° 21′ 57

W 9° 22′ 44

São Pedro da Cadeira

N 39° 6′ 10

W 9° 23′ 56

Pêro Pinheiro

N 38° 50′ 59

W 9° 19′ 17

Tomar 

N 39° 36′ 25

W 8° 24′ 37

Gois

N 40° 9′ 53

W 8° 6′ 31