No Particular Place To Go

It’s inevitable that at some stage we were going to stumble upon places we have been to before and this year it seems to be happening far more than in other years with the weather being so unpredictable its been difficult to know where to venture next so over the last few weeks we have spent our time ambling across the Hautes-Pyrénées, into Midi-Pyrenees, then stopping off in Tarn-et-Garonne, the Dordogne and then finally for this part of our trip the Deux-Sèvres department, returning to familiar places along the way so John can get out cycling and I go walking.

Situated north of Tarbes is the pretty market town of Maubourguet surrounded by vineyards. The aire is in a very green setting with many flowing streams and rivers.

The Maubourguet town is a hive of activity during the Tuesday morning market so I go off in search of what fresh fruit and veg I can find.

The most important historic monument in Maubourguet is the Church of Saint-Martin built in the 11th century. It was originally part of a Benedictine monastery and is on the pilgrimage route of Saint Jacques de Compostelle

Tucked away in the small valleys of the Gers in southwest France is the classic bastide town of Marciac. With a central village square and the town hall being its main feature the four sides of the square are lined with shops and cafes it’s a nice place to watch the world go by. 

The one thing that makes Marciac unique amongst the many other bastide towns in France is the yearly Jazz festival. Back in 1978 a small group of friends led by school teacher Lean-Louis Guilhaumon started a small jazz festival and over 40 years later, it has become one of the most important jazz festivals in the world.

Music is everywhere when the festival is on. Every bar, street corner and alleyway has musicians playing, the square festival is free, it’s vibrant, exciting and great for a jazz fan.

Over the years luminaries such as Jeff Beck, Joe Cocker, Nina Simone and Ray Charles have all played at Marciac, it’s certainly worth a visit even if the jazz festival isn’t on.

This morning we went in search of the discount store Noz. They stock everything and anything. Unfortunately, the store we found has lots of empty shelves hopefully we will see another store during our travels.

Back in Fleurance John meets up with the local cycling group and I think it’s a shock to his system, he sleeps well that night. 

Fluerance is a lovely village to walk around and the lake certainly helps get your steps up. Whilst walking I bumped into Susan whom I met in the village a few years ago so it’s lovely to see a familiar face. 

We move a few miles up the road to Lectoure where John has arranged to me up with Bernard and the rest of the Lectoure cycling club. It’s been a few years since he last cycled with them but he manages to keep up. 

A singing waiter and a Berry Tiramisu was on the menu for my birthday this year. 

I have walked around Lectoure village so many times but today is the first time I spot the old water reservoir set amongst a small estate. 

It’s just after 7 a.m. when I open the habitation door to hear the burners of several Hot air balloons slowly rising above the trees in Lectoure 

With the van refusing to start this morning we are helped by a fellow motorhome and his brother who lives locally, however, I’m sure the threat of a large box of swan vesta would of down the trick too!!

Trevor and Ching park up next to us in Lectoure and we get chatting, then over the next few days we bump into each other in Fleurance and Donzac, they even come to our rescue when the van decides not to start again!! It’s been an enjoyable and interesting few days with them. 

In need of electricity to charge everything up we found the aire in Donzac that has full services it’s a great site €6 for the night, shame our neighbour can’t park straight and is grumpy, but the sunset makes up for it.

Donzac village is built in a pleasant mix of brick and stone with the mairie, market hall, and church dominating the town.

Thankfully this Donzac village has a launderette because I’m not sure I would want to use this old traditional washhouse (lavoir). 

I need to get out more I have started to rate the launderettes I spend my time in – price, kg per load, do they provide laundry powder, however the assistance of two old French ladies that take it upon themselves to sort my washing is funny!

No fish were harmed in the taking of this photo 

Just to the right of Bordeaux and home to more than 1001 chateaux, many caves, gorgeous green landscapes, and daring cliffs is the Dordogne, we spend a few days travelling through it.

When we arrive in the Dordogne it’s buzzing there are holidaymakers everywhere and not much has changed in Siorac since we were here a few years ago.

Madame at the campsite in Sioriac is like the female version of ‘Mr. Fiddler’ everything has an additional charge.

We are used to driving the back roads but the Dordogne brings a new meaning to this, especially during the summer season when it’s packed with tourists it’s certainly a test of your driving skills with the curvy one-way roads and tight bridges.

Montignac saw one of the stages of the Femmes Tour De France finish here and the shops are still filled with decorative artwork.

Over the last week, the predicted and predicted storms arrived but the temperature still doesn’t drop, some days it just gets hotter, so we are up early to move on and find somewhere cooler. 

We have been to Brantome several times before but we know the aire as shade, however, when we arrive it’s rather busy and at €14.10 with limited services we decide we camp with a few other vans in the field next door 

It’s 10 pm as we walk along the river in Brantome to get an Ice cream but that doesn’t cool us down either. 

Another night and another storm and this time it lights the skies above Brantome. 

Last night’s storm is over, however, it continues to rain on and off which we don’t mind it’s cooler as we go in search of the Giant Omettle event that’s taking place in the Monks garden in Brantome.

Located on the Paris to Madrid road is the rustic village of Roullet-Saint-Estèphe which is rather uninspiring, if the properties aren’t falling then they are up for sale. The aire is just a large car park but it’s ok for a one-night stop.

In the small village of Rouillac, we find the camping car park and walk a short distance into the village where most of the shops are closed but we do find a restaurant to have lunch. 

Parking opposite the showers comes in handy when I get locked in the cubicle and have to bellow across the carpark for John to come and rescue me

The  16th century Château de Javarzay in Chef-Boutonne was once one of the most sumptuous buildings in Poitou. It is said Henry IV stayed there twice. Bought by the municipality in 1982 it is now a museum and home to 400 headdresses and bonnets.

In earlier days the washing was either done in the Boutonne river or the women would go to one of the several “lavoirs” that are situated in different parts of the village to do their washing. 

Coordinates for Aires used in France 

Maubourguet

N 43° 27′ 60

E 0° 1′ 55

Marciac

N 43° 31′ 38 

E 0° 9′ 31

Fleurance

N 43° 50′ 51

E 0° 40′ 18

Lectoure

N 43° 56′ 11

E 0° 37′ 34

Donzac

N 44° 6′ 48

E 0° 49′ 14

 Tournon-d’Agenais

N 44° 24′ 8

E 0° 59′ 34

 Coux-et-Bigaroque

N 44° 49′ 37

E 0° 59′ 28

 Le Buisson-de-Cadouin

Montignac

N 45° 4′ 4

E 1° 9′ 53

Roullet-Saint-Estèphe

N 45° 34′ 48

E 0° 2′ 42

Rouillac

N 45° 46′ 50

W 0° 3′ 46

 Chef-Boutonne

N 46° 6′ 36

W 0° 4′ 38