It’s been years since we’ve had what you might call a proper holiday. We’re usually off somewhere in the motorhome — chasing sunsets, getting lost down scenic lanes, and pretending we’re experts in finding the right park-up for the night — but a trip with suitcases, an itinerary, and no wheels? That’s a whole different adventure.
So when the idea of a 16-night cruise came up, we thought, “Why not?” How hard could it be? Well, to start with — packing. When you’re used to tossing in a fleece and walking shoes, the concept of “formal nights” comes as a bit of a shock. Since our own suitcases were enjoying early retirement in storage, we borrowed some from our friends John and Dee. There were a few “heated discussions” about what counted as essential — apparently, four hats, several pairs of jeans, and a small mountain of shoes didn’t qualify — but somehow, we got the zips closed. The cases looked ready to cry, but we were off.
Tilbury greeted us with a slight breeze, a hint of blue skies, and a lot of excitement. Boarding was surreal — no levelling ramps, no LPG checks, no debates about where to park the van — just a smiling crew and the instruction to relax. We didn’t need telling twice. Our cabin was snug, let’s say “two people and a hint of furniture,” but clean, cozy, and ours for the next two weeks. By five o’clock we were gliding down the Thames attending a safety drill before trading traffic and tarmac for endless sea views, folding chairs for comfortable settees, and our whistling kettle for someone bringing us tea or a mocktail with a smile.
That first night, the North Sea quickly reminded us who was in charge. Things rolled, tilted, and swayed like we were part of a slow-motion fairground ride. Sea sickness tablets didn’t help they just made me feel like I’d been sampling the cocktail menu all night, even though I hadn’t.
Sea days soon became their own kind of fun. The ship was a world of people-watching and quiet chaos — quizzes taken far too seriously, knitting circles, cross-stitchers, and a dedicated crowd of afternoon nappers who treated snoozing like an Olympic sport. Watching fellow passengers steer their scooters and walking frames with Formula 1 precision — especially around the dessert counter — was entertainment enough.
Our first stop was the little town of Invergordon, Scotland — small, friendly, and refreshingly calm after the sea’s temper tantrum. We followed its famous mural trail, eleven large paintings and several smaller ones, each telling the story of local life. From there we moved on to Ålesund, where the Fjellstua viewpoint left us speechless: snow-dusted mountains, still fjord waters, and clusters of colourful houses that looked almost too perfect to be real.
Trondheim, Tromsø, Alta, Narvik, and Kirkwall each had their own personality — some calm and picturesque, others bustling and bright. But Alta gave us the most unforgettable moment of all: the Northern Lights. One of the main reasons we chose this cruise, and it was pure magic. Ribbons of green rippled across the night sky, reflecting in the water below. For a while, everyone on deck fell silent — no chatter, no cameras clicking — just awe, and the kind of stillness that gives you goosebumps.
Back on board, we were seated with the same lovely group every evening, and they quickly became part of the adventure. They made each dinner something to look forward to, with easy conversation and plenty of laughter. Then there were Dave and Mary-Anne, who added an extra spark to every evening, whether through jokes, stories, or a shared glass of something cheerful.
It didn’t take long to realise we were among the youngest on board — though not exactly spring chickens ourselves. The average age hovered somewhere between “free bus pass” and “veteran cruiser,” and conversations often turned to past voyages and favourite ships. It felt like being quietly welcomed into a floating secret society. The ship itself may be old but it’s beautifully kept inside, the crew were wonderful — kind, funny, endlessly patient. The shows were great, the food plentiful, and breakfast seating required a strategic approach. But it all became part of the rhythm, part of the story.
Would we go back to the motorhome? Absolutely. Would we cruise again? Also absolutely — maybe next time with the van somehow attached for comfort and familiarity. Because, in the end, this trip wasn’t just about the destinations. It was about laughing through the chaos, enjoying the calm, and finding joy in the smallest things — like a perfectly timed joke over dinner, a mural in a quiet town, or standing side by side under a sky alive with the Northern Lights.
Cruising: it’s chaotic, it’s calm, it’s also wonderful. And yes — we’ll be back.
Inside Ølhallen pub that is described as “the oldest pub in Tromsø” (opened in 1928) and is historically connected to the Mack brewery next door.
Behind us, Ambience is docked in Invergordon as we head out for the day.
Invergordon is famous for its vibrant murals, each telling a story about the town’s rich maritime heritage, local history, and community spirit through colourful, large-scale artwork on buildings throughout the harbour area.
The roof of the library in Tromsø has an interesting design that helps to shed snow efficiently.
Aboard the Artic train in Narvik
Hot tubbing it across the Artic circle
It’s worth the wait in the cold to see the Northern lights make an appearance
We spent two days in Alta seeing the sights
Fjellstua viewpoint across Alesund with Ambience docked for the day
Tromso with the Catherdral and Port in the distance
When a simple drop-off turns into a hands-on training day at sea for LN-OIM
The pilot waits to come aboard, ready to guide us along the fjords and out toward the open sea.
Midnight and the views are amazing
Each night we get to see a great performance at the theatre
We didn’t get to a photo of our table companions – Dorian, Shelia, Margot and Ed. But Shelia and I definitely chose the best dessert that night…Carrot cake and Ice cream
Spotting the Trolls of Norway
The weather is awful in Kirkwall so we only get to see a few of the attractions and the cathedral is one of them