It’s Monday morning, and after a quick trip to Aldi to stock up on the essentials, we hit the road with Fátima in our sights. The drive is easy, but as we arrive, it becomes clear that we’re not the only ones drawn to this famous pilgrimage site today. The place is packed—visitors from all over the world have converged here, making it feel like the entire globe had the same Monday morning idea. We find ourselves in a queue, waiting patiently for a spot to park up, so on goes the kettle and we wait.
Fátima is a town steeped in history and spirituality, known far and wide as Portugal’s most significant pilgrimage destination. Its renown stems from the 1917 apparitions of the Virgin Mary to three shepherd children, a miracle that not only solidified Fátima’s place on the map but also led to the construction of an expensive religious complex. The site is dominated by the grand Basílica de Nossa Senhora do Rosário and the modern Basílica da Santíssima Trindade, but the real heart of the experience is the Capelinha das Aparições, the very spot where the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared.
The crowds here are a mix of the devout and the curious. For the faithful, Fátima offers a profound spiritual experience. The atmosphere is thick with devotion as pilgrims engage in prayer, attend services, and light candles, each moment heavy with personal significance.
For the more casual visitor like us, the experience can be quite different. We are not religious people but by visiting Fatima we get a better understanding of the faith and why people flock here and especially years ago at a time when Europe was at war and people lived very simple but hard lives, it is understandable that they would seek guidance and pray for a better life for everyone. The many donations given by pilgrims prove their willingness to sacrifice to achieve a better world. Yet, as we walk through the streets, we can’t help but think that the vast sums spent on the sanctuary could have been better used, particularly in addressing the poverty that still lingers in the surrounding areas.
However, regardless of your reason for visiting, the evening candlelight processions, held from May to October are worth seeing, the amount of people that assemble at 10.15 pm with lit candles is quite mesmerising.
Having spent a couple of nights in Fátima, we find that the town doesn’t offer much beyond its religious sites. The streets are lined with what we’ve come to call “God shops,” selling all manner of religious souvenirs, but there’s little else to do.
With a few days left before our house sit begins, we are undecided on where to go next that will be quiet and we will get a good spot because it’s clear that there are lots of motorhomes and vans out and about at the moment.
After speaking to several travellers who either live full-time in their vans or choose to stay in an apartment but move into their vans during the peak summer months. I think we understand the reason why. As June rolls into July and August, the cost of living spikes. Their rent or campsite fees can double, pushing many to adopt a more mobile lifestyle. This seasonal migration explains the diverse array of motorhomes we’ve seen everywhere, from modest campers to larger motorhomes, each a temporary haven for their owners.
So with the temperature slightly cooler here and our laundry bag growing fuller once again, we point the van back towards Tomar, a place we know we will find a warmer spot.
Back in Tomar, the tent people have finally settled down, but now we’ve got new neighbours—a family with two kids who make Chucky look like a saint. It’s a good thing our stay is short; otherwise, I might just have to resort to some creative ways to reclaim our peace.
As we roll out of Tomar for the last time this year, we leave behind a quirky campsite filled with memories of barking dogs, noisy tent neighbors, and those unsettling children. The ground may be dry, but the experiences are rich and unforgettable. Time to hit the road before we start barking too!
While our Portuguese neighbour in Fatima perfects the art of napping, her husband is mastering the art of peeling spuds. Maybe I should start taking notes… or at least invest in a good peeler for John!
During our stay, the elderly Portuguese couple in the tent next to our van provided unexpected entertainment. Despite their age, they exude a lively energy that’s captivating. At times, they climb over the low stone wall, tossing shopping bags over with a thud, including a large tub of ice cream they share each afternoon—a simple yet fascinating routine.
There are several parking zones in Fatima each with a toilet and shower block but we are lucky to get into one of the designated free motorhome places
The Sanctuary of Fátima, also known as Sanctuary of Our Lady of Fátima, is a group of Catholic religious buildings and structures in Cova da Iria, in the civil parish of Fátima, in the municipality of Ourém, in Portugal.
Fátima is a central Portuguese town that’s home to the Sanctuary of Fátima, a Catholic pilgrimage site. The Capelinha das Aparições marks the spot where the Virgin Mary allegedly appeared in 1917.
The Via Sacre starts from a large, busy roundabout but, once we are on the path, we leave the town behind and enter the countryside where we walk amongst large groves of old olive trees and acorns scattered below tall oak trees. The route is marked by monuments depicting the stations of the cross and leads us to the chapel of St Stephen at the highest point of the hill.
Walking the Via Sacre we follow a group of pilgrims who sing their way to the chapel.
Loca do Cabeco, where a simple white statue marks the spot of the first apparition of the angel.
We see devoted pilgrims shuffling on their knees along the 600m marbled slabs
A concrete block that belonged to the Berlin Wall stands on the edge of the grounds of the Sanctuary of Fatima. It was a gift to the Sanctuary from a Portuguese emigrant residing in Germany.
There must be over 100 shops all selling the same religious tack
Having spotted a Chinese restaurant, we walked inside to find it so empty you could hear a dumpling drop and the only signs of life were the flickering lights. Just as we started to wonder if we were in an abandoned building, a tiny woman with the energy of a caffeinated squirrel zoomed over to us and before we got a chance to leave she got us seated at a table. She took our order so quickly, we weren’t sure if our order would be right but before we could blink, she was in the kitchen, whipping up our dishes like some kind of culinary ninja. She reappeared with our food faster than I could say “spring roll,” and then just as quickly zipped off to start the next course. As we dug into our meal, another couple finally walked in. “Oh good,” I thought, “they’ll split her focus.” But nope! She managed to take their order, cook it, serve it, and clear our mess, her little legs moved so fast, that we started to wonder if she was secretly powered by a tiny motor. It was like watching a one-woman show, and by the end of the meal, we were exhausted just from watching her. We left the restaurant full, impressed, and a little concerned that by what we had just witnessed.
Back in Tomar we drive straight back into the plot we had left a couple of days ago and set up camp next to our new neighbours
Wash day in Tomar, when in doubt, push buttons and hope for clean clothes—not a new language setting!”
John will look like a lettuce at this rate so as its slightly cooler I decided to cook something different tonight other than salad
Every night we walk along the Rio Nabao River that runs through Tomar
Galoe coffee and soup for lunch
Despite the temptation, we can’t share photos of the sweet-looking children at our campsite. At first we were fooled by their angelic faces— but their behavior could star in a horror movie, with antics that keep everyone on edge.
The disused shower block with make shift towel hook helps keep us cool when its too hot
Coordinates for Aires used in Portugal
Fatima
MN 39° 38′ 2
W 8° 40′ 16
Tomar
N 39° 36′ 25
W 8° 24′ 37