It’s cold, wet, and wrapped in fog as we leave Coja and begin the drive toward Figueira da Foz. Not exactly postcard weather but then again, road trips rarely wait for perfect conditions.
The journey itself is… interesting. Bumpy roads keep us on our toes, and along the way we pass trees that look like someone’s been playing dominoes with them toppled one after another, casualties of the recent storms.
When we finally reach the coast, the beach at Figueira da Foz tells its own story. It’s scattered with driftwood, washed ashore in tangled heaps a reminder of just how rough things have been out at sea and the ferris wheel to that once gave its passengers amazing views is also a casualty of the storms too.
From there, we head back to Foz do Arelho a place we visited last year. And honestly? Not much has changed.
The views are just as beautiful, the atmosphere just as laid-back, and even a few familiar faces are still around, holding the fort. It’s the kind of place where you start to wonder if time slows down… or if people have simply mastered the art of staying exactly the same.
We’ve been here a few days when we check the forecast for the weekend and it’s not great. In fact, not great for a while. With similar weather predicted across both Portugal and into Spain, and diesel prices creeping up, we make an easy decision, we stay put. And what was meant to be a short stop quickly turns into a couple of weeks in one place.
The first Saturday morning brings a bit more excitement than expected. It’s always a busy time at the campsite people coming and going, so we head over to the service point to top up water and deal with the usual van chores.
But something’s going on. The GNR (Police) and the Bombeiros ( Ambulance / Fire service ) are gathered around a couple of vans. Locals soon fill us in, apparently there’s been some kind of altercation between two Portuguese men. We had heard raised voices earlier but, as is often the case here, just assumed it was animated conversation rather than anything serious.
By the time we’ve been for a walk and grabbed a coffee, everything has cleared. Their motorhomes are gone, and calm has returned like nothing ever happened.
Over the following days we settles into daily life. The weather flicks between dry and bright one minute, then drizzly and windy the next. Nothing dramatic just unpredictable enough to keep things interesting.
We get out for walks every day, making the most of the fresh air between showers. There’s something about being by the coast, even in less-than-perfect weather, that still feels good for the soul.
We even take care of the practical bits like making use of the village launderette because real life doesn’t stop just because you’re travelling.
Not everything is slow-paced though. During our stay, we catch some of the Ramp de Foz do Arelho, bringing a burst of energy and noise to the otherwise peaceful surroundings.
It’s a nice contrast to the calm engines roaring where usually there’s just the sound of the sea.
With the weather showing no signs of improving anytime soon, and everything we need right here, staying put feels like the right choice.
Sometimes travel isn’t about chasing the next destination. Sometimes, it’s about pausing… and letting a place, quietly and comfortably, become home for a while.
The beach in Figueira da Foz is now the covered in driftwood from recent storms
We pass miles and miles of trees that recent storms have knocked down like dominoes
Gloomy walk along the harbour wall in Figueira da Foz before the rain returns
Not much changes at the site in Foz do Arelho there are lots of familiar faces like Agi and her cat
We wake to a foggy start to the day in Foz do Arelho
We find this Artists workshop tucked in a back street in Foz do Arelho where you can throw your own pot on the wheel
We have a walk around the shell house that is home to garden and sea shells from all over the world
Rally day in Foz do Arelho where the sound of engines roaring can be heard all along the coast
My campsite friend for a few days
Sunset in Foz do Arelho
He’s selling out of his car boot but keeps lying on the floor—really took “laying down on the job” literally.
The coast line in Foz do Arelho is great place to get out and walk
I pass this house daily whilst out walking and usually see the old man doing his stretches whilst the his dog and chickens run around him
Aires and campsites used in Portugal
Figueira da Foz
N 40° 8′ 51
W 8° 52′ 2
Foz do Arelho
N 39° 25′ 43
W 9° 13′ 12