As we inch further along the Pyrenees, we get to explore more of the French countryside in this area before braving the heat waiting for us back in Spain.
Our first stop is the charming village of Rébénacq, nestled snugly in the foothills of the Pyrenees. The village only permits five motorhomes at a time, with a strict 48-hour limit on stays. To our surprise, we find an open spot, making it an ideal place to pause and soak in the tranquility. As we wander through the village, its peacefulness is almost palpable. We discover just two shops—one of which doubles as a bar—so naturally, we stop in for a drink, soaking up the local atmosphere.
Next, we roll into Laruns, another picturesque gem known for its appeal to cyclists, walkers, and winter skiers. Today, the village is bustling with activity, thanks to a bank holiday parade and fête that keep us entertained throughout the afternoon. The lively festivities offer a vibrant contrast to the serenity we found in Rébénacq.
Traveling around the Pyrenees presents its own set of challenges at times. One wrong turn or a simple diversion sign, and our satnav is sent into a frenzy, recalculating and rerouting with each passing minute but it finally gets us to the spot we are looking for.
This part of our journey has a purpose beyond leisurely stops. We’ve agreed to house-sit for Geoff and Anne in Portugal, so it’s time to make our way back to Spain. This time, we opt to head towards Madrid, cutting across the country in the hope of finding quieter roads. But soon as we hit the Spanish roads, there are bumps and dips, which adds a bit of excitement, making us bounce in our seats as we journey onward.
Crossing this way we soon realize that fewer stops means fewer options, and over the next three days, we find ourselves in Sabiñánigo, Zaragoza, and Fuensalida. Each town offers a glimpse into the “real” Spain, far removed from the whitewashed villages of the coast. Fuensalida, in particular, strikes us as authentic Spanish— no sleepy streets with tons of gift shops, or pristine white washed walls, just people that have lived here all their lives, with parts that haven’t been cleaned in weeks of not years.
This leg of our journey has reminded us of the diversity in Spain’s landscapes and cultures. From the lush greenery of the Pyrenees that are quiet, unassuming towns to the dust, and sometimes derelict Spanish interior, but there’s always something new to discover. And as we continue towards Portugal, we look forward to the next chapter of our adventure, knowing that each stop brings its own unique charm and despite the occasional hiccup, there’s a sense of adventure in every mile we cover.
Rébénacq is known as a 13th century market town but as more of a village feel about it.
The houses here are built side by side, all with the same dimensions, and a garden. Since 17th century each family has to pay the same amount of tax to the Viscount of Bearn, and there’s a similar system in place today.
The Néez river which flows through Rébénaca is fed from a mountain stream, called the “gave d’Ossau”.
Festival time in Laruns
A large crowd gathers for the parade in Laruns which goes on for hours
Fireworks in Laruns echos off the mountains across the valley
So, we roll into yet another town, staring up yet another mountain that cyclists are apparently supposed to climb for fun. This time, John tries to convince me to rent an electric bike and join him up the Col De Abstu. I think he might be under the impression that I’m training fur next years Tour!! Thankfully, the bike shop was closed—so my dignity and quads remain intact for another day!
Its a foggy day as he heads up the Col De Abatu good job he took a coat
Moving into Spain we soon noticed the shift in weather as well—our tracksuit tops and bottoms have been stowed away once more, making way for shorts and t-shirts as the temperature climbs.
We stop to get bread before crossing the border into Spain
Its definitely van life in Zaragoza, I counted around 100 campers all gathering for the night, proving there’s safety in numbers, but the camping part is cut short just as we settle in for a peaceful cup of tea under the stars, the Zaragoza police arrive to remind us: there’s no ‘camping’ so our chairs packed up faster than you can say ‘van life’!”
We stop at Sabiñánigoto make a cup of tea but its so hot we don’t want to get out of the van
I don’t actually get a photo but as we drive through Madrid, it’s surprising to see the contrast of modern city life with shanty towns and crumbling buildings, some without roofs, yet still considered home by those who live there.
What started as a quiet night at the Aire in Fuensalida turned into a multi-national orchestra of clunks, barks, and pre-dawn alarms. After an all-night concert of wedding parties, early hour arrivals, and barking dogs, we are showered and ready to hit the road at 8:30, well, after a few air horn beeps to our neighbours, it was the encore they deserved!”
Co ordinates for Aires used in France and Spain
Rébénacq
N 43° 9′ 25
W 0° 23′ 50
Laruns
N 42° 59′ 14
W 0° 25′ 49
Sabiñánigo
N 42° 30′ 20
W 0° 21′ 22
Zaragoza
N 41° 40′ 58
W 0° 53′ 25
Fuensalida
N 40° 3′ 11
W 4° 12′ 54