Once again, we found ourselves returning to the peaceful hills of central Portugal to house sit for Ann and Geoff at Quinta da Castanhas. It’s a place that has become familiar to us over time but this visit felt very different from the start.
Recent fires and heavy weather had taken their toll on the land. The already rugged track leading up to the house had deteriorated into a rubble-strewn, deeply rutted road and after John and our friend Reg try driving the track in Reg’s jeep they decide there was no way we could get the motorhome up safely.
So thankfully, Reg and Sylv very kindly agreed to step in and help look after the van until the track dried out enough for us to gain access.
In the meantime we make our way carefully up the damaged track in Geoff’s car, and we were shocked at the transformation. The loggers had been in, clearing vast areas of trees after the fires. The once wooded approach now felt incredibly open. The landscape had completely changed, exposed, and almost unrecognisable in places.
Yet, as so often happens in nature, loss brings a different kind of beauty. With the trees gone, the views across the valleys were breathtaking, rolling hills stretching further than we’d ever seen before.
Despite the challenges of getting here we still managed to do the things we wanted to do and the weather mirrored the changing landscape. We began with bright, warm, sunny days — the kind that remind you why we like Portugal in the first place. But gradually it shifted back to windy and chilly conditions, keeping us reaching for extra layers by evening.
During our stay, we were able to join the annual Shrove Tuesday carnival in Coja. This year’s theme appeared to be Disney films, and the village didn’t disappoint. Bright costumes, music, laughter, and a wonderful community atmosphere filled the streets. It was lovely to see everyone embracing the fun despite the difficult months the region has endured.
Of course, no trip to Coja would be complete without stopping for coffee in the square sitting watching village life go by and before Ann leaves we have a wander around the monthly market in Coja, markets here are always as much about socialising as shopping, familiar faces, friendly greetings, and plenty of catching up.
Our daily routine revolved around Patch, Giota, Molly, and Dora. Walking the dogs is always one of our favourite parts of house sitting but this time even that came with adjustments.
The forestry machinery had churned up many of the tracks we’d previously used. Some were thick with mud, others filled with standing water, and some were deeply rutted with uneven holes. We had to find alternative routes, picking our way carefully through the changed landscape.
This visit to Quinta da Castanhas felt like witnessing a place in transition. The scars of fire and logging are visible, and the terrain is rougher than before. Yet the community spirit remains strong, the views are wider than ever, and life continues in its steady rhythm.
It wasn’t quite the peaceful return we expected but it was meaningful in a different way. Watching a landscape recover, adapting to new walking routes, celebrating carnival, and reconnecting with friends reminded us why we value these house sits so much.
Every visit tells a new chapter in the story of this hillside home.
Giota, Patch, Molly and Dora certainly keep us entertained
After being here nearly two weeks the water is still running off the mountains causing more ruts in the already uneven track
With the burnt and fallen trees removed we find lots of old houses that once stood amongst the dense forests and we have never been able to see in the past
A long-overdue haircut with Elsa and a chance to practice my Portuguese
Lunch at Urtigal
Market day in Coja
Coffee stops in Coja and it’s free Coconut cake for all women
Somewhere in this crowd we catch up with Reg and Sylv, and spend time with Lee and Gabriela
Market day in Arganil
Woke up this morning to find the cows had left their field… and moved into the garden
Our morning walk looks very different this time
Coja Carnival which is always fun and this year Elsa the Hairdresser makes a great Cruella de Vil
The fires had been severe since our last visit, and many trees and wooded areas have been lost. Seeing the blackened ground and cleared hillsides was sobering. The loggers continue their work, cutting and clearing what remains unsafe. It will take years for the land to fully recover.