After the rain comes the floods as we continue around the coast of Brittany. Fortunately, we were up high so weren’t affected but when we park up in Ploudalmezeau we are warned not to park in some of the dunes as people have already been evacuated earlier that day.
Along this coastline we travel through three departments, the Finistere, the Côtes d’Armor and the Côte d’Émeraude all offering something different to see and with the weather now cooler we can get out to explore each day.
We walk amongst the heather along rugged cliffs with jagged inlets, watch the daily catch come in at fishing ports and follow the smugglers or art trails in villages surrounded by old-world charm dotted with the black and white flag of Brittany, known as the Gwenn-ha-du, blowing in the wind everywhere you look.
Once again it’s time for us to move on and as we leave this Celtic-influenced region of Brittany we are not sure what to make of it. In the south, we read and heard about the glorious beaches and pretty villages but we couldn’t park or get through the crowds so perhaps we went there at the wrong time of year as there were days when we questioned if we were still in France because it looked and seemed rather run down in parts.
Then the North gave us a different feel, with maintained villages where every rooftop looks new, it’s far less touristy, sandy beaches with just a handful of people, there seems to be more open space, plenty of places to park and an all round calmer feel, we have enjoyed it here.
Likened to Cornwall the North of Brittany certainly has the clotted cream tea effect hopefully we will return one day to sample more.
At the small village Goulven we are surprised by Steeple in the church it’s hugeWe follow the art trail around the village of Goulvon to the coastPotato harvesting Goulvon
And John thinks our motorhome is overloadedThe black and white flag of Brittany, known as the Gwenn-ha-du, is everywhere you look.With several beaches in Plougasnou we are parked On the shores of the Channel Sea is the village of Plougasnou. Occupied since the 5th millennium BC, the territory of Plougasnou unveils the most important megalithic site in the area.Guess we better move on
Trébeurden in Brittany is a historical town on Brittany’s rugged coast where many islands lie just off-shore, and beautiful marshes, moorland and forests full of megaliths and ancient legends are waiting to be explored.Miliau is the largest island, named after another Welsh monk, Meilaw.Castel Meur, also known as La Maison du Gouffre or “the house between the rocks”, is a charming cottage wedged between two huge jagged rocks, in the the quiet little village of Plougrescant.
The house has her back turned towards the sea, against which her owner sought to protect her by building the house in a cradle between the two rocks to shield her from the violent storms that frequent this place. The tiny house was built in 1861, at a time when building permits did not exist, where anyone could build at will. After the death of her original owner, Castel Meur served as the second home to the descendant’s family who lived here sporadically. The current occupant, the granddaughter of the first master of the house, has lived here since 2004. Previously, you could walk right up to the house. But when some Japanese tourists climbed on the roof and caused damage, the owner built a perimeter wall around the property We park along by the River Jaudy then walk up to the village of Tréguier perched up on the hill. TreguierBest known for being the birthplace of St Yves, the patron saint of lawyers. Treguier is an attractive little town of full characterThe cathedral in Treguier is an impressive building in what is effectively a small town, this is due to two men, Saint Tugdual, Welshman and Saint Yves who made it a place of pilgrimage.It’s a rainy day as we walk around the harbour in Paimpol with its mix of pleasure and fishing boats tied up.Paimpols cobbled streets are a mix of new and 17th-century stone buildings with quirky shops.Paimpol was made famous in the 19th century by Théodore Botrel and his song “La Paimpolaise” about a girl from Paimpol, but above all, it is known as being the departure port for cod fishing to Newfoundland and IcelandWe spend the night in the quiet town of Plouézec situated in the Cotes-d’ArmorEnclosed by nearly three kilometres of ramparts, the town of Dinan and its 14th-century castle proudly overlook the Rance river.
The medieval town boasts some of the finest architecture in Brittany, with buildings dating as far back as the 13th century. Even though the walled Breton town of Dinan is tourist it’s still one of the nicest towns we have been to in Brittany. Much of the original city wall remains intact, ensuring that history buffs will be particularly drawn to this charming settlement.The town of Saint-Brice-en-Cogles is pleasant town that doesn’t take long to explore but is listed as a “Village d’etape” so definitely worth a visit
Coordinates used for Aires in France
Lampaul-Ploudalmézeau
N 48° 34′ 4
W 4° 39′ 25
Goulven
N 48° 37′ 52
W 4° 18′ 31
Trebeurden
N 48.76023
W 3.57721
Tréguier
N 48.78972
W 3.23183
Paimpol
N 48.78416
W 3.04647
Plouézec
N 48.74787
W 2.98535
Dinan
N 48.45456
W 2.03862
Saint-Brice-en-Cogles
N 48.41166
W 1.36262
2 thoughts on “North of Brittany, France”
It’s wonderful to see your travels through France. My husband and I spent quite a bit of time in various regions from 2014 through 2018, and hope to visit Loire in 2023. We have photos of some of the same places you’ve been, it is always nice to travel back, even if it is a virtual visit.
Thank you so much we have had a great time this year and will be returning to the UK soon.
We hope you venture further a field one day and hopefully that includes the USA.
It’s wonderful to see your travels through France. My husband and I spent quite a bit of time in various regions from 2014 through 2018, and hope to visit Loire in 2023. We have photos of some of the same places you’ve been, it is always nice to travel back, even if it is a virtual visit.
Wishing you more fabulous adventures!
Jeannie & Chris, Florida USA
https://slownomads.phoosh.net/
Thank you so much we have had a great time this year and will be returning to the UK soon.
We hope you venture further a field one day and hopefully that includes the USA.
Stay safe and happy travelling
Karen and John x