Leaving Spain we enter Portugal and head for Castelo Branco which is nestled in east-central Portugal and a magnet for those who crave the wild, off-grid life.
As we make our way past the dusty land that looks deserted at times it reminds us of the kind of place where the only traffic jam you’ll encounter is a flock of sheep crossing the road, and the closest thing to a neighbour might be a fox or two.
Living off grid in Portugal is perfectly legal, but there are a few regulations to keep in mind. That said, I’m not entirely sure some of the people we’ve seen in the the area are too concerned about permits or following every rule in the book. Let’s just say, if you’re looking for a place where no one asks questions, Castelo Branco might be your kind of place.
As for us? Well, we like our creature comforts far too much. A fridge stocked with cold water, a beer and a hot shower most mornings are non-negotiables. So, while the off-grid life might appeal to some, you won’t catch us trading our motorhome for a yurt in the wilderness anytime soon.
Unfortunately, the local aire here was a bit of a letdown. With no shade to speak of, so we decided to move on.
Our journey from Castelo Branco to Tomar was, thanks to our ever-faithful Sat Nav, more of an adventure than we bargained for. The road, if you can call it that, twisted and turned like a particularly enraged snake, narrowing at points where I felt like breathing in at times. So it was a relief Relief when we finally spotted a main road ahead that was paved, wide, and thankfully straight.
We rolled into Tomar late on a Sunday afternoon, feeling a bit hot and battered but relieved. Our main concern was whether we’d find space in the motorhome aire its normally a popular place.
To our surprise, there was plenty of room, and we snagged a spacious, albeit dusty, spot under some trees. With enough space to set up the chairs and enjoy a well-deserved cup of tea, we felt the tension of the day fade away. We’ve visited Tomar before, so there was no pressing need to check out the Templar castle again, just plenty of time to get out for a walk each day.
The motorhome aire here is free and just a short walk from the old town, and set in the grounds of a former campsite. It’s an ideal base for exploring, with a constant flow of fellow travellers coming and going. Well, except for the tent pitched a couple of plots away from us. The first night was relatively peaceful, with just a bit of noise. But the second night? Oh boy. The screaming and shouting went on all night long. By morning, none of us had gotten any sleep, and there was a collective rush to pack up and move plot, before we lynch them and get arrested.
It was such a shame, too, because the aire is perfectly situated—close to the old town, the river, coffee shops, and local stores.
Over our time here the weather changes daily, one day, we were melting under the sweltering sun; the next, we were reaching for our cardigans as the evening chill set in. Our solution was to either head out early in the morning or after 6 PM when the heat began to subside. This gave us plenty of time to wander the charming streets of Tomar, stopping for a coffee and people-watching without the fear of heatstroke.
We also got to know our neighbour, Paul and Karen across the way, and Kosta, Tatiana, and their lovely children next door. Between swapping ice cream, watermelon, and exchanging Tour memorabilia, we managed to build a little community, for a short time.
As much as we’ve enjoyed our time in Tomar, we need groceries and our next house sit beckons so its time to pack up and move on again.
Crossing the border into Portugal
After the hot dusty drive to Tomar, when we spot an Indian restaurant in town on the map, it was like finding a pot of curry at the end of the rainbow.
One of our favourite coffee shops is Estrelas de Tomar, so we stop off for a Tosta mista and coffee
A walk along the river to the market to buy fruit, veg and bread
The monumental complex overlooking the town of Tomar was founded by the Knight’s Templar in 1160 overlooking the Nabao River.
When Paul and Karen find what seems to be the Portuguese equivalent to Wetherspoons we go out to meet them for a drink, €1.80 for a beer
The Portuguese Wetherspoons also sold Tapas, €1 each
The old municipal campsite my be a little run down and old but its free, shady and the old outside showers keeps us cool with its luke warm water
With our neighbours Kosta and Tatiana we exchange Melon, ice cream and Tour De France bits and pieces we had picked up in France
Our peaceful Portuguese campsite turned into an unexpected soap opera when the “Tent People” next door decided to reenact a full season of *Real Housewives* in one night. With every muffled shout and unintelligible screams, it felt like we were stuck in an episode where subtitles would have been handy—except even then, I’m not sure the drama would make any sense. Who knew a disused campsite could have so much prime-time entertainment?
Late evening and it’s a breezy walk along the river
Originally the town had a cross shaped layout with a convent at each point of the compass but today, amongst all of the buildings there are lots of derelict properties.
16th century Octagonal temple
This 1841 water fountain receives water from the São Gregório spring, one of seven springs belonging to the original town water supply.
Some days the only place to get cool was sat by the window
Evening walk when it’s cool around the old town
Coordinates for Aires used in Portugal
Tomar
N 39° 36′ 25
W 8° 24′ 37