No Particular Place To Go

Before leaving Coja, we had a necessary pit stop — quite literally. The motorhome was booked into the local garage to have the tyre valves replaced. With a few hours to kill, we wandered the quiet lanes of the village, grabbed a coffee, and made the most of the slow pace that Portugal seems to do so well. Once the motorhome was sorted, we headed back to Camperplaats Terra-de-Iguanas, a familiar spot, for a couple of nights.

The return wasn’t just for a scenic retreat — the dashboard was still flashing an airbag sensor warning, and we had an appointment at another garage nearby to get it checked out. In true Portuguese fashion, the mechanic was late and, when he did arrive, seemed baffled as to why we were there in the first place. Not exactly confidence-inspiring. A few hours later, we left with the same blinking light and no solution, but at least our stay was salvaged by catching up with Ronny, the welcoming owner of Terra-de-Iguanas.

From there, we made our way back to Anceriz, where John had a day booked with Vintage Enduro bikes. It was equal parts thrilling and nostalgic — the kind of adrenaline that makes your arms ache and your heart full. Riding through the rugged hills and forest trails, it was as if time turned back and the only thing that mattered was the next bend in the dirt track.

The weather finally turned a corner — gone were the gloomy skies, replaced by warm sun and crisp blue skies. With John’s visa appointment in Coimbra still over three weeks away, we didn’t want to stray too far, so we decided to revisit some favorite spots and explore a few new ones along the Portuguese coast.

We headed toward the Atlantic, driving the stunning stretch between Figueira da Foz and Foz do Arelho — arguably one of Portugal’s most underrated road trips. Driving the coast road we pass the roaring surf of Nazaré, known for its monster waves and fearless surfers, the road winds its way south through a postcard-perfect blend of golden beaches, sleepy fishing villages, and forested hills.

Each twist in the road brings a new vista: the open Atlantic stretching to the horizon, clusters of red-roofed cottages nestled into cliff sides, and quiet pine groves swaying in the sea breeze. We stopped often — for a cup of tea, or to take photos, and sometimes just to breathe it all in.

Our last stop was Lagoa de Óbidos, near Foz do Arelho some where we know well. A few weeks back when we were here it was constant rain but now the sun is shining and it’s busy with lots of tourists and familiar faces. 

This part of the trip has been less about sightseeing and more about getting jobs on the van done before we set off further afield. But amidst the visits to forgetful mechanics, impromptu motorbike adventures, and ice creams by the sea, the best news finally arrived — John’s long-awaited visa was approved. 

After months of waiting, paperwork, and appointments, we can now start planning the next chapter of our journey with a little more ease, no longer having to juggle the restrictions of the 90-day rule.

Foz do Arehlo where are neighbours are all nationalities and a squawking Parrot who’s got Maria on his mind

Watching the sunset in  Foz do Arehlo

In the last few weeks, we’ve found ourselves retracing our steps, revisiting familiar places — at times it feels like we’ve been looping in a figure of eight around central Portugal. But tonight, we’ve returned once again to São João de Areia where the wild boar are roaming in the next field just behind us.

View tonight in Costa do Lavos

We park at Costa do Lavos along with just four other vans and a few people fishing on the beach for the night 

We dip in and out of the N2 sometimes called the Portuguese Route 66 — it is one of the most famous road trips in Portugal. Route: The route starts in Chaves (North) to Faro (South) and crosses: 11 districts, 35 municipalities, 11 rivers, 4 mountain ranges, and 4 UNESCO sites.

John gets to spend the day roaring across the hills around Anceriz and Coja 

Lunch in Marinha Grande €11 for 3 courses

Lidl isn’t my favourite shop but it’s worth a visit for a Dubai chocolate muffin, hopefully Lidl have them in store back home

In Foz do Arelho I visit the Centro de Interpretação Para a Lagoa de Óbidos which serves as an educational environmental hub dedicated to preserving and showcasing the rich biodiversity and cultural heritage of the Óbidos Lagoon.

We enjoy a beautiful view over Foz do Arelho during the week—peaceful and calm, save for the occasional group of local schoolchildren taking canoe lessons and the quiet activity of fishermen. But come the weekend, the atmosphere shifts as more camper vans roll in and the promenade comes to life with people strolling along the seafront, snacking on Portugal’s beloved lupini beans.

The only way to get cool today was to sit in the river Alva

Testing out the chairs at the car boot sale

You know you’re living the motorhome life when you bump into people you met two years ago by pure chance, and within ten minutes you’re chatting like long-lost friends and that’s exactly how we found ourselves catching up with Gary and Helen again — only this time, our reunion came with unexpected fringe benefits (pun entirely intended).

Helen, who’s a retired hairdresser (though clearly still armed and dangerous with a tint brush), casually pointed out that the ends of my hair had taken on a suspiciously green hue — a little souvenir, it seems, from my previous hair colouring escapade a few months ago. Before I knew it, Helen had whipped out a box of colour, a pair of gloves, and just like that, Pitch 5 was transformed into an impromptu open-air salon. Other campers strolled by offering cheerful encouragement! “

The end result? My hair was saved from its swampy fate, Helen got to dust off her hairdressing skills, and the campsite got free entertainment for the afternoon.

I’m sure there’s a new venture there for Helen, “Cuts, Colours & Campers” a full-service salon on wheels. 

John set off on the cycle path from Santa Comba Dão to Viseu, a route known for its stunning scenery and peaceful surroundings. But nature had a surprise in store. As he pedaled along, an 8ft snake suddenly shot across the path right in front of him. With no time to stop, John rode straight over its tail as the snake quickly slithered away into the bushes. A close encounter with local wildlife — and a reminder that even the calmest rides can come with a dash of adrenaline!

Coordinates for Aires and Campsites used in Portugal

Costa de Lavos 

N 40° 5′ 15

W 8° 52′ 24

Marinha Grande

N 39° 44′ 25

W 8° 54 57

Figueria do Foz

N 40° 8′ 51

W 8° 52′ 2

Foz do Arelho

N 39° 25′ 43

W 9° 13′ 12

Sao Joao de Areias

N 40° 23′ 26

W 8° 5′ 10