It’s been a couple of weeks since we crossed the border at Irun back into France and at that time we were shocked to see the price of diesel €1.62 per litre, we had certainly been spoilt in Spain only paying €1.32 a litre.
South West of France spreads across the regions of Occitanie and Aquitaine with roughly 157 villages that seem to have a laid-back feel, packed with different traditions, delicious food, varying landscapes and let’s not forget John’s favourite thing the wine.
Due to housesitting, we’ve had the pleasure of enjoying this region in the past but, no matter how many times we visit, we’re still able to uncover another interesting pretty village that we haven’t been to before. The next few weeks see us move further south where the fortified towns have central places with arches that are a symbol to mark their territory and hidden small back alleys that sometimes you only find by mistake.
Whilst wandering around these villages the weather has been ever-changing somedays we wake to a cloudy sky that slowing turns blue then the temperature rises and the heat is unbearable, however by late afternoon the sky becomes grey, and there’s the slow rumble of thunder, flashes of lightning, and a sudden downpour of rain that sees the storm become more violent the closer it gets, despite this the weather returns to a calmer sunnier climate quite quickly only for it to return the next day.
As the French would say it’s “Un temps de chien and it’s pleuvior cache quo pisse” literally “It’s dog weather and it’s raining like cows urinating” – we would just say torrential rain, let’s hope the predicted weather forecast changes soon.
It’s late afternoon and we didn’t like the look of a couple of Aires we have seen so opt to spend the night at a nice little campsite in Hastingues, it’s on quite a busy road with just a few houses nearby. We park next to the kiwi trees and chat with our French neighbours.
After all the driving today we decide to walk from the campsite in Hastingues to the small town of Peyrehorade however we underestimate just how far it is but we keep walking.
We have been to the small picturesque village of Grenade-sur-l’Adour before and it’s a nice spot under shady trees, with lots of walks along the river and to the village. Unfortunately the rivers in this area are so muddy from the flooding of the river banks.
At the site in Grenade-sur-l’Adour, a Frenchman plays the accordion and flute along with the familiar sound of the airforce overhead from the base at nearby Mont de Marson. Shame I couldn’t get a photo of him through the trees.
Lac de l’Uby is a nice aire and very popular
At Lac de l’Uby we walk around the Lake and see the big crap being caught by the locals.
Labastide-d’Armagnac is another familiar spot to us but this time it soon becomes clear this area has had plenty of rain, amongst the long grass you can’t see how boggy it is but we soon find out when we get stuck!!
Labastide-d’Armagnac has some lovely old buildings
The Notre Dame des Cyclistes is a special church near the village of Labastide-d’Armagnac. Since 18 May 1959, the old chapel has been dedicated to famous cyclists.
This unique attraction in France is home to more than 600 jerseys from world champions to members of the public including the shirt John and James wore to climb Mont Ventoux, this little chapel is full of cycling memorabilia.
The hilltop town of Lecture is surrounded by old stone walls steeped in history, with amazing views looking out over the Gers plains.
Couldn’t come to Lectoure and not by a baguette and a Mille-Feuille
At the end of Rue Nationale (Lectoure’s main high street) is the majestic structure that was once the castle of the Counts of Armagnac, then in 1749 it became a hospital and today the infamous Village of Antiques.
Before the hospital’s closure in 2013 it had been open for 250 years and under the old regime, men and women worked tirelessly to weave linen and hemp.
Our neighbour and John spend time chatting about the Tour De France, Noughat all whilst enjoying a glass of Ricard.
Our neighbour has an old poster from the Tour De France that he enjoys telling us about.
Fleurance is a town we are familiar with so we have a wander around the market which seems to have grown since last year.
Parked up next to the rather muddy Gers river. It is said that this town was named after the Italian city of Florence, to represent the important hopes the founders had for the future of Fleurance.
Sleepy village of Temple-sit-Lot
It’s wash day at Temple Sur Lot. This village was formed around a Commandery of Templars established in the 13th century which derived its income from tolls collected from boats sailing on the Lot and on the road that ran alongside it.
Located in the village of Temple sur Lot is Latour-Marliac which is home to some of the oldest water lilies in the world.
After stumbling on Latour-Marliac, we read that it’s where the painter Claude Monet would come to get his water lilies at the end of the 19th century.
The pretty village of Monpazier
Not sure if this headwear will catch on but at least I got the essentials to meet up with Garry and Steph
Villareal is a lively and attractive small town with an interesting Saturday market that runs all year, I walk there to get some bread and cakes for lunch.
It’s a hot day so lunch is alfresco in the shade
Dessert was definitely worth the walk to the village this morning.
Simon and Sarah invited us to stay at their beautiful home for a few days.
We have a fun few days with Garry and Steph and it’s good to catch up after all this time.
We met up with Pete and Lorna at a vineyard in Monbazilac with great views across the valley.
At Avinturiers vineyard near Monbazalic we are given a lively wine-tasting experience by Mr Camus, he is a real character
This area is full of Passion sites so we only travel five miles down the road. The Domaine du Haut Montlong is operated by the family-Sergenton Metifet-Garcia winemakers whose roots date back to the sixteenth century. We spend the night here with Lorna and Pete.
In Juillac we find a basic but beautiful campsite alongside the river where through the trees our neighbour will be Darcy Bushell for the next couple of nights.
Finally, the rods make an appearance but the river is flowing to fast to catch anything, well that’s his excuse anyway.
In Blasimon we park up on a vineyard owned by Benoit & Benjamin. Set amongst the forest we have the shade from the vines and the use of a pool to keep us cool.
The last few days it has got hotter and hotter so we head to Fontet and park amongst the trees next to the marina where we can watch the antics of the locals on the river.
With no local fire service this looks like it was just left to burn.
The Romanesque Benedictine abbey at Fontet with its three-bay arcade bell tower is an elegant structure.
At Villeneuve-de-Marsan we find the green theatre, created in 1985, to mark the beginning of a hiking trail called the Lavoirs (wash-house) trail.
The local takeaway €10 per dish
The stormy weather over the last few days has caused severe flooding in this area and at Pujo le plan we are diverted because the road is impassable.
Along with the rumbling airforce flying over head we brace ourselves for another night of storms after Camping car park phone us to say there is a weather alert and we need to stay safe.
Proudly sitting on his island at the end of the waterfall, Eugène, a beautiful gorilla is 4 meters long and 2.80 meters high and weighing 800 kilos opens the artistic season in Eugénie-les-Bains.
Coordinates for Aires used in France
Hastingues
N 43° 32′ 29
W 1° 7′ 54
Grenade-sur-l’Adour
N 43° 46′ 22
W 0° 26′ 9
Labastide-d’Armagnac
N 43° 58′ 19
W 0° 11′ 11
Cazaubon
N 43° 56′ 2
W 0° 1′ 53
Lac de l’Uby
Lectoure
N 43° 56′ 11
E 0° 37′ 34
Fleurance
N 43° 50′ 51
E 0° 40′ 18
Temple Sur Lot
N 44° 22′ 53
E 0° 32′ 10
Villareal
N 44° 38′ 16
E 0° 44′ 27
Monpazier
N 44° 41′ 5
E 0° 53′ 41
Monbazillac
N 44° 47′ 19
E 0° 29′ 45
Pomport
N 44° 47′ 58
E 0° 23′ 41
Juillac
N 44° 49′ 30
E 0° 3′ 40
Blasimon
N 44° 44′ 38
W 0° 6′ 19
Fontet
N 44° 33′ 32
W 0° 1′ 26
Villeneuve-de-Marsan
N 43° 53′ 14
W 0° 18′ 22
Eugénie-les-Bains
N 43° 41′ 42
W 0° 22′ 36
Really interesting Karen! I’m making a note of a few of those places to visit ???? we managed to get stuck on grass at a friends house 2 days ago…towing was required ????
Likewise, we have noted places you have been to that look interesting. The weather is bonkers at the moment the further south we travelled the ground was boggy and flooded, finally the sun is shining. Happy travels